Each Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.
When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.
An Shocking Recognition
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.
The Namesake Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.
Outranking the Giants
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.
The Creed of Heart
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
The Journey of Dedication
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the Culture
The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.